Learn Kathmandu by Vikram Seth Class 9: Summary, Themes and Exercises

Have you ever visited a place that felt both peaceful and chaotic at the same time? In the chapter ‘Kathmandu’ by Vikram Seth, the author shares his real-life travel experience in the capital city of Nepal. Through his journey, he describes the contrast between the crowded, noisy Pashupatinath temple and the calm, serene atmosphere of the Baudhnath stupa. As he walks through busy streets filled with tourists, pilgrims, and shopkeepers, he carefully observes the culture, traditions, and daily life of the people. This chapter not only presents a vivid picture of Kathmandu but also highlights how small moments, like listening to a flute seller, can leave a deep and lasting impression.

Table of Contents

• Chapter Overview
• Themes of Kathmandu
• Practise Exercises

Chapter Overview 

This chapter is an excerpt from Vikram Seth’s book titled ‘Heaven Lake’ where the narrator has described his expedition to the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu. The chapter describes a long journey from China to India through Tibet and Nepal, this travel piece provides an insight into the author’s visit to Kathmandu and his experiences during his travels. En route, he visited temples that are considered sacred to the Buddhists as well as the Hindus. The Pashupatinath temple was the first temple he had visited which is a popular Hindu pilgrimage site. The narrator observed that priests, tourists, hawkers, pilgrims and a few animals there create disorderly conditions and chaos around the temple. Moreover, he had noticed that when the devotees take a bath in the sacred river Bagmati, they dump used flowers into it and wash their clothes, hence the river gets contaminated. He also visited the Buddhists’ shrine, the Baudhnath stupa, which has an immense dome that gives a sense of tranquillity and serenity. There are small shops outside the temple owned by Tibetan immigrants who sell silver ornaments, Tibetan print clothes and felt bags. The narrator found this place to be a safe haven with peaceful surroundings. He also observed the religious culture of Kathmandu where there were small shrines of deities decorated with flowers. He found hawkers selling postcards, fruit sellers, several antique shops, chocolates and lots more everywhere he went. He then took a train and returned to Delhi by bus and then took a train to Patna, trying different routes as he was adventurous. He noticed an interesting flute seller near his hotel who had a pole with numerous flutes attached to it that resembled a porcupine’s body. The flute seller played his flutes melodiously. He realised that the flute seller didn’t hawk his flutes but only played his instrument with profound devotion. The narrator was so taken with his playing that he compared the tune of the flute to a human voice and realised that he has started observing even the intricate details.

Themes of Kathmandu

The chapter ‘Kathmandu’ discusses important themes such as cultural diversity, spirituality, and the contrast between chaos and peace. Through his observations, the author highlights how different traditions coexist in Kathmandu and shows the value of noticing simple yet meaningful moments in everyday life.

• Cultural Diversity: The chapter beautifully highlights the rich cultural diversity of Kathmandu. The presence of both Hindu and Buddhist religious sites, such as the Pashupatinath temple and the Baudhnath stupa, shows how different cultures and beliefs coexist in the same place. The markets filled with Tibetan goods and the mix of tourists, pilgrims, and locals further reflect the city’s diverse and vibrant character.

• Spirituality vs Chaos: Vikram Seth presents a contrast between spirituality and chaos. While places like the Baudhnath stupa offer peace and calmness, the Pashupatinath temple appears crowded and disorderly. This contrast shows how spiritual places can have very different atmospheres.

• Observation and Awareness: The author’s journey highlights the importance of careful observation. From noticing the behaviour of people to appreciating the music of the flute seller, he becomes more aware of the small details around him, suggesting that travel deepens understanding.

• Simplicity and Devotion: The flute seller represents simplicity and dedication. Despite having many flutes, he plays only one with deep focus and passion. This shows how true devotion can be found in simple acts.
  
  

Practise Exercises

Very short Answer Type Questions 

1. What kind of room did the narrator rent?
   Answer: The narrator got an inexpensive room at the centre of town.

2. How was the atmosphere at both the temples?
   Answer: The atmosphere at both the temples was very distinctive.

3. What are the contents of the signboard outside the Pashupatinath temple?
   Answer: The signboard outside Pashupatinath temple mentions ‘Entrance for Hindus only’.

4. Why did the policemen not allow the westerners to enter the temple?
   Answer: The policemen forbade the westerners to enter the temple because only Hindus were allowed to enter the temple.

5. What did everyone do as the Nepalese Princess entered the temple?
   Answer: Everyone bowed as the princess entered the temple and made way for her.

Short Answer Type Questions

1. Why was the Pashupatinath temple over crowded?
   Answer: To get the priest’s attention, the worshipers were too eager to enter the Pashupatinath shrine. They were shoving, elbowing, and pushing one another because they wanted the priest to give their offerings to God.

3. Describe the fight that broke out between the two monkeys around the temple of Pashupatinath?
   Answer: Two monkeys got into a fight and started chasing each other. The pursuing monkey abruptly climbed a shivlinga, rushed shrieking through the temples, and then descended to the holy Bagmati River.

4. What did the narrator observe on the streets of Kathmandu?
   Answer: The smallest and busiest lanes in Kathmandu were lined with little temples housing deities covered in flowers. The city’s streets were lively, commercial, and sacred. There were people selling fruits, trading goods, and selling flutes. Cows that were roaming around aimlessly were bleating when they heard motorcycles. Traders would yell loudly to exchange goods and the radios loudly played movie music. Additionally, the narrator could hear automobile horns and bicycle bells.

Long Answer Type Questions

3. How did the Pashupatinath temple differ from the Baudhnath shrine?
   Answer: There is a sign at the Pashupatinath temple that reads, ‘Entrance for the Hindus only.’ The grounds were filled with priests, worshippers, hawkers, visitors, monkeys, cows, dogs, and pigeons. Many worshipers were elbowed as they attempted to obtain the priest’s attention. Saffron-clad foreigners fought for entry through the main gate of the shrine. Contradictory to the quiet serenity that permeates the Baudhnath shrine is the boisterous commotion of the Hindu temple. There weren’t many people present within the Baudhnath stupa. A road wraps around the dome. There were no crowds, despite the modest stores that are situated on its perimeter. In contrast to the busy streets outside, the narrator claimed that the shrine was a tranquil retreat.

4. Describe the impact of the flute on the narrator, Vikram Seth.
   Answer: The flute’s tune held the narrator’s attention. It was enchanting, and he found it difficult to hold back from heading to the square where the flute vendor was playing this music. The music was so potent and alluring that the narrator believed it was bringing all of humanity together. The narrator was reminded of numerous forms of music created by various types of flutes found in various cultures when he heard a flute seller’s song in a square close to his hotel in Kathmandu. He underlined the strong relationship between human voice and the melody of all flutes. This distinctive quality of the flutes forced the storyteller to experience and comprehend the value of togetherness.

5. What idea do you form about the narrator, Vikram Seth from the excerpt Kathmandu?
   Answer: The excerpt from Kathmandu was written by Vikram Seth, who describes his travels through the city. The passage makes it clear that the author is a sharp observer and carefully records every nuance of the places he sees. He has a strong desire to travel far distances and visit several locations. He depicts the city’s streets, bazaars, and temples in vivid detail. By the dramatic contrast he provides in the passage, Kathmandu, it is clear that he enjoys the peaceful and tranquil surroundings. He refers to the stupa as a sanctuary of peace. Additionally, he expresses his disapproval of the harmful activities performed along the banks of the Bagmati River as an ecologist.